2009
11.12

P1000230

I pre-ordered my Gopro HD Helmet Hero the first week of October, after yet another day of disappointment at the field with my Flycamone2

Well, my unit turned up today on Fedex, and I regret that I pretty much trashed the box taking it apart.  It’s got cool-looking packaging. 
*More on the packaging later!

I’d been looking forward to this day for some time.  Last week, I was in contact with the Support group at Gopro, and they are effective and nice.  The company is located in Half Moon Bay, very close to where I live.

The instructions consist of a non-assuming large folded sheet of glossy paper.  There is a surprising amount of information on this large form, and you can fold it up & fit it in your pocket without trashing it. 
The instructions state that the battery comes with a storage charge of 50%, and that you can just go out and play if you like without hurting the battery,  I like the fact that they thought of this.  I was a good boy and charged the battery anyway.

I had a litle bit of a dilemma deciding where to mount the camera on my Aspire.  The package came with a pair of nice sticky mounts for the camera, but I was nervous about just sticking this to the monokote.  With the sun settling in the winter afternoon sky, I had an idea – use the ‘shoe’ for the camera that came with the packaging as a mount! 
I quickly knocked the sides off with a hacksaw, drilled a couple of holes, backed the bolts up with some plywood to reinforce the weak balsa floor and called it good:

P1030211

Now, in retrospect I realize that this mount could use some improvement.  First of all, I need better foam dampening between the mount and the body of the airplane.  Also, I think the packaging ‘shoe’ fits more loosely than the real thing, so this mount is definitely a 1.0 revision.  In the video I hear something rattling, and I think it’s some combination of these problems causing the noise.

P1030204

The camera has a number of modes, the nuances of which are discussed in the instructions.  I wanted the glories of full-blown 1080p, though I ended up scaling that back down to 720p in Premiere later to reduce the size of the file I’d be uploading to Vimeo.  When I got home and read  the docs again I realized that I made an error – the camera has a nifty feature that allows you to tell it that it is inverted. 
That way, it records the video on the SD in the correct orientation! 

A note on noise:  When inside the housing, this camera lives up to it’s claim of fending off wind noise.  It has an amusing legend on the back of the unit, that advises the use of the waterproof case door if the wind encountered is expected to be faster than 100mph :-D

P1000227

I decided to buy Adobe Premiere Elements as an editing tool – I’ve been using good old Windows Movie Maker for a long time.  Most of my evening was spent purchasing, downloading, and getting to know the product.  Overall, I’d rate the Adobe online fulfillment experience as ‘deeply annoying’, but we got the job done.

I need to experiment with some mount options to see what I can do about the noise of the motor resonating through the airplane, and I am planning to be very careful about where I fly until I get a larger glider.   In it’s protective housing this camera weighs darn near 6.5oz, and the case is a blessing.  It adds an ounce and a bit more to the overall weight, but it’s one tough cookie and you would be insane to use this camera for RC stuff without it.

The camera was easy to use, and I’m very happy with the results.   Considering that I was flying in the poor light of a Winter sunset, had a quickly rigged mount plus lousy Premiere editing skills, this product is a miracle.

Update 11/19/2009 – I put the camera on my Ultra 25 in better light, better mount, and with the sub-100mph door.  The results are much bettter. 

.. Now it’s time to improve my skills at video editing, for a start!

2009
11.06

Zeke reviews the Hangar 9 RV-8 ARF, a 46 size sport- scale rendition of the Van’s Aircraft RV-8 build-it-yourself civilian aircraft.

Lid popped

Lid popped

After enjoying the E-Flite RV-9, I decided to get something similar yet larger. I just picked up the Hangar 9 RV-8 46. It’s a clean looking rendition of the Vans Aircraft RV-8. This is my first ARF from Hangar 9 and with a wingspan of 5ft. and a length of over 4ft. it will be the largest in my fleet at this time. It’s designed for 2 or 4 stroke slimers or a Power 46 / equivelant EP motor. After unpacking it and checking the contents I was quite happy as everything is mint. All the fragiles are individually wrapped and secured. The covering is excellent, better than I have ever seen from E-Flite out of the box. No warps, wrinkles, bubbles, or tears. The manual is well-written and logical. Hangar 9 got it right on this aspect.

I will be using mostly the recommended gear, though I’m not a fan of E-Flite ESC’s. Here is my config:

E-Flite Power 46
Castle Phoenix 60 ESC and CC-BEC
6x JR DS821 high-torque digital sport servos driven @ 6V, 2x for Flaps
JR R921 RX with 4th. receiver
4s lipo – likely 2x 2500 mAh 30C’s in parallel
I’ll start with an APC 13 x 8 prop

Will be flown with JR X9303 so should have 2048 resolution w/the R921. Also ServoSync. I bench tested everything and was surprised at how smooth and accurate the servos are as well as the torque and holding strength. They are standard size, yet light. I will be using 7 channels on the RX as I prefer a channel per aileron and flap – no “Y” harness. This gets you subtrim and the ability to configure differential. For this setup you will need 2x 6″ extensions for the ailerons.

The Du-Bro 2.75″ white spinner is recommended. You will want this, catalog # 290.

The hardware kit is complete and includes proper components. This was meant to be either a slimer or an EP so the hardware is sturdy. Some may prefer to swap out the nylon clevis(s) with metal hardware.

All control surfaces are pre-hinged with control horns attached. The rudder employs a pull-pull linkage via cable. The elevator is dual halves and the horizontal stab halves mate together with the fuse via 2 joiner tubes.

There is a ton of room inside the hatch, making easy work of servo, linkage, and radio / lipo installation. Eases cable tidy-up as well.

The hatch has magnets holding it in place and you can also bolt it in from both sides.

Electronics

Electronics

Bits

Bits

Fuse / Hatch

Fuse / Hatch

The tail halves

The tail halves

The 2-piece landing gear. Boo!

The 2-piece landing gear. Boo!

Really the first step is to attach the landing gear. I prefer to wick a couple drops of thin CA on every joint inside the fuse in case the factory was slacking. The LG is a few minute job. I opted for no wheel pants as I want to fly off short grass. I don’t really care for 2-piece landing gear as it is usually prone to fail.
Radio gear pre tidy-up

Radio gear pre tidy-up

Next up is radio gear – the ideal spot is above the wing joiner tube behind the battery tray to allow for lipo clearance. I have 1 satellite RX on a 6″ lead in the top right of the fuse, the other satellite on a 12″ lead in the rear left of the fuse. An R921 is overkill for this bird, for the 7-channel setup an AR7000 or AR7600 is ideal. Or for an FM setup a quality 6 or 7 channel RX would be great. Kit includes an antennae routing tube.
Elev. and Rudd. servos installed

Elev. and Rudd. servos installed

The rudder and elevator servo installation is easy, place the servo in the tray, mark inside the grommets with a pen, then use a pin drill to make pilot holes. Wick thin CA over the surrounding wood and when it cures bolt your servos in. The JR DS821 servos fit perfectly in the servo tray.

Careful when cutting out the exit!

Careful when cutting out the exit!

The pull / pull ruder linkage requires patience and care. Cut the cable exactly in half! They provide more than necessary but if you cut one too short that would be the fail. Check the crimps on the bench, when I tested initially one failed on me! They provide extra crimps if you screw it up. Make sure the rudder is centered when you are doing this! Use low-tack tape to hold it in place.
When removing the covering for the cable exits be super-careful to only cut out the bare minimum. Gently move the cable back and forth to determine where it wants to poke out before you use a hobby knife to remove the covering. Do not ram it in with violence!
Horizontal stab prior to joining to fuse

Horizontal stab prior to joining to fuse

The tail halves are joined to the fuse with 30-minute epoxy. You will need to carefully mark and remove the covering from the fuse where the halves mate. Hangar 9 has taken care of exposing the bare wood on the tail halves.
Tail mated to fuse

Tail mated to fuse

You will want to use low-tack tape to hold it in place while you gently apply pressure or lightly clamp until the epoxy sets.
Canopy installed & curing

Canopy installed & curing

The canopy is another task which requires patience & skill. You have to cut it out of a giant mold without damaging it. Canopy scissors would be the clear choice however I don’t own a pair so I used Fiskars. Cut all the way around within .5″ of the mold lines. Then trimmed up with a razor knife and hand sanded. Ya! Use canopy glue to secure it to the hatch and keep an eye out to wipe up any drips.
cowl_a
The instructions for the cowl are complete shennanigans. They say to use a hobby knife to cut out the air inlets. Good luck. You will need a rotary tool with a drill bit to get going then an attachment to route it out. I finished it up with a sanding drum on the rotary tool.
Finished cowl

Finished cowl

Motor mount template

Motor mount template

The included motor mount template makes it easy. Tape it up, mark the holes, pin drill them out then BAM. Enlarge the holes to about 4.5mm to allow for the mounting bolts. Das Schroeder!
The Power 46 X-mount included also needs to have the outer mounting holes drilled out to about 4.5mm and the bolts and included spacers keep it all together.
Power 46 mounted

Power 46 mounted

The cooling vents need to be cut out from the firewall – this is a pain because the firewall is coated in adhesive to prevent fuel damage. I used a rotary tool to punch through and route out the cooling vents.

Once that is complete,  it’s a simple matter of connecting the motor to the ESC, and mounting the ESC with the leads out of the way.

The cowl bolts right up easily. The prop adapter & spinner backplate is installed along with a prop, then the spinner hub is attached.

Left-side

Left-side

Right hand side

Right hand side

I used wire keeps and double-sided foam tape to tidy up the electronics as best as possible. This setup has 11 leads coming off the RX due to the satellite receivers and FlightLog interface!

under_hatch

All in all, I think Hangar 9 did a fine job with this ARF. They included silly foam wheels, which is crap for something this size. A few dollars to replace with something nice though. The motor mount template is brilliant, saving wasted and potentially inaccurate work.  The finish is high-quality and clean, very true to the full-size RV-8. I did not find any potential gotchas with the manual, it is well-written.

Overall, I’d have to rate this ARF high up on the scale. I look forward to building more Hangar 9 ARF’s in the future.

-Zeke

2009
11.02

1KW

1KW

Eli maidened my Eratix on Sunday, we had the eagletree micrologger onboard and here’s a screenshot of the peak data. 1KW!!

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